Reflecting on the Camino de San Salvador

Lessons from Pilgrimage to Oviedo

"He who goes to Santiago and not to Salvador, visits the servant but not the Lord."

 The Camino San Salvador is not a long walk, but it is a powerful one.

In just five or six days, the trail climbs out of the cathedral city of León, follows rushing rivers and ancient Roman roads, and winds through emerald forests, misty passes, and the rugged spine of the Cantabrian Mountains before descending into the Basque-tinged beauty of Oviedo. What it lacks in length, it makes up for in intensity - of both terrain and experience.

 
We found that walking the San Salvador was a short trek full of vivid landscape, deep heritage, and lessons in humility. 

A Trail of Solitude and Spirit

This is a trail for those who seek quiet.
 
Most days, we walked alone, save for the company of birdsong, cowbells, and the rhythmic sound of our own footsteps crunching over wet leaves or skimming across open ridgelines. The trail is steep and unrelenting in places, with mountain weather that changes in a moment - but the reward is a sense of unfiltered connection to the land as well as stunning panoramic views of northern Spain.

 
There were moments that reminded us of the Camino Primitivo or Trans Canada Trail in Newfoundland in their wild beauty.  Moments when we watched mist rising from valley floors, or spotted stone hamlets appear suddenly out of the fog.  Despite these comparisons, however, the San Salvador felt more intimate in its potential for long stretches of solitude. 

Following in Sacred Footsteps

There is a deep history here, even if the trail feels lightly walked. Medieval pilgrims took this route from León to Oviedo to visit the Cathedral of San Salvador, home to relics such as the Shroud of Oviedo. In doing so, they honoured an older pilgrimage tradition that predates even the cult of Santiago and pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.

 
Walking this path today is an homage not just to those early pilgrims, but to the still-beating heart of spiritual travel.  It is a reminder that the journey is not always about the destination, but about the transformation that occurs in the space in between. 

Lessons in the Rain

We walked through a lot of rain.
 
There were afternoons when we were soaked to the skin, slipping down muddy slopes and had to pause to wring out our Buffs and Merino shirts.  But each of those moments - the sodden boots, the steaming breath, the sigh of reaching the top of yet another pass taught us something about resilience, and the quiet joy that comes when you stop fighting the discomfort and simply accept the day for what it is.

 
It reminded us that pilgrimage isn’t about perfection. It’s about perseverance. And perhaps more than that - it’s about perspective. 

Between Earth and Sky

As always, we walked with eyes open for birds.
 

In the high passes, we saw griffon vultures and kites wheeling overhead, and heard the melodic calls of robins and blackcaps in the shaded woodlands. The ever-present song of the dippers accompanied us along river crossings, and on some mornings, the cloud-wrapped peaks echoed with the faint call of distant cowherds.
 
The landscape often seemed alive, ancient, and connected.  For us, that was wonderful. 

Lessons from the Camino de San Salvador

Challenging Landscape, Wonderful Rewards.  The Camino de San Salvador traverses a rocky and at times challenging landscape – but then again, every challenge gives way to amazing rewards.
 
The Final Stage.  Don’t underestimate the last stretch into Oviedo – which was ultimately longer and harder than we had anticipated.
 
Journey between Journeys.  When used as a bridge between the Camino de Madrid and Camino Primitivo makes for a wonderful longer trek to Santiago de Compostela. 

A Pilgrimage Worth Making

The Camino San Salvador is not for everyone, and that is perhaps what makes it so special.

 
It’s steep, it’s remote, it’s under-signed in places, and yet it’s unforgettable. There is a rugged honesty to this trail that calls to those seeking something more elemental than the well-worn path. For us, it served as a vital and vivid link between the Camino de Madrid, the Camino Francés and the Camino Primitivo not just geographically, but spiritually.
 
We left Oviedo humbled, grateful, and reminded that sometimes, the shortest journeys leave the longest imprint.
 
See you on the Way!